Submit your skincare questions to Dr. Agnes, CEO of Herborium and natural medicine expert
Did you know that the type of skin you have
can influence the type of acne that you have, and how to treat it? Topical
treatments have never been one-size-fits all, and it's important to understand
your skin type to treat it properly.
While AcnEase is designed to work for all skin
types, there are a couple of extra steps that you can take to ensure that your
skin is happy and healthy from the inside out that totally depend on your skin
type. Your skin type is usually a result of your genetics, but in extreme
cases, it can be induced by using the incorrect products for your skin!
You will know if your skin is oily if it seems
to have a constant shine, regardless if you moisturize or not. A myth about
oily skin is that it doesn’t need moisturizer—this is totally false, as all skin needs moisture to be healthy! Opt for
oil-free moisturizers to provide essential hydration, and if concealing
pimples, opt for a setting powder applied on top to keep makeup in place. Oily
skin is also more prone to blackheads forming than other skin types.
Dry skin often feels tight, especially right
after cleansing. Needs extra moisture and hydration to ensure that any makeup
looks seamless without flakiness or peeling. Dry skin can easily be worsened
with topical treatments that are too harsh, such as retinoids.
If you have normal skin, lucky you—you’ve won
the skin type lottery! Normal skin doesn’t too oily or too dry, it’s perfectly
balanced. However, that doesn’t mean it can be unbalanced by using products
that aren’t quite right for normal skin—using too many drying treatments can
leave it feeling stripped of moisture, while products that are incredibly
heavily moisturizing could leave skin feeling oily.
You might have combination skin if you feel
like your skin has aspects of two or more categories above. For example, you
might have an oily t-zone, but dryer cheeks. Keeping tips in mind for each of
these skin types for different parts of your face will be essential for ensuring
acne is under control.
But, if you have olive skin, that’s another
factor coming into play that affects how you treat acne. Remember, you can have
any of the skin types above and have
olive skin, as it refers to the melanin in your skin, rather than how your skin
Olive skin is typically classified as Fitzpatrick Skin type three and darker. If
you're not sure if you classify as olive-skinned, there a few quizzes online!
But in general, if you have dark eyes, hair, and skin that tends to tan rather
than burn—you probably have what's considered an olive skin tone. But what does
that mean when it comes to acne?
With any kind of skin inflammation—whether
it's acne, a scratch, or a bug bite—olive skin types are more likely to develop
something known as Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation or PIH for short. PIH
occurs when trauma happens to the skin, in our case, acne.
When trauma occurs, melanocytes are triggered.
These melanocytes have a role in restoring the pigment to the healing skin, but
can sometimes overproduce melanin—leaving behind the darkened reminders of
where acne used to be. PIH does happen to all skin types, however, its effects
tend to last the longest and be more visible on darker skin because of the
naturally higher levels of melanin.
It’s important to note that PIH is different
from acne scars, such as icepick,
rolling, or boxcar scars. PIH’s trademark is that it is a completely flat, dark
mark, while acne scars typically show a significant change in texture from
normal skin, and can take more time to treat than PIH. However, the overall
treatments are similar—it just takes a longer time to see results.
There are also some common skincare mistakes
that can worsen PIH—mainly, popping and picking at acne. Avoid the temptation
to pop and pick at the skin by spot treating, or using hydrocolloid pimple
patches that suck out all the ‘gunk' of a zit. It's important to remember that
this only reduces the likelihood of PIH—not erases it. For some skin types, no
matter how delicately they treat their skin, PIH comes up anyway, and that's
where part two of dealing with PIH comes in.
In the short term, PIH can be covered up and
concealed—just like spot-covering inflamed acne, a non-comedogenic concealer can be used to
temporarily hide any lingering PIH spots. Just be sure to use a clean brush
every time to prevent potentially spreading zits! A combination of color
correcting and concealing can help make skin look flawless. A tiny dab of an
orange color corrector over PIH means that you can use less concealer for a
more flawless result. In the long term, a combination of internal and external
treatments can be used to diminish the appearance of PIH.
A product that's crucial for reducing its
appearance—as well as the likelihood of PIH forming in the first place—is using
a UVA and UVB blocking facial sunscreen every day. This is essential because it protects the new, vulnerable skin from UV rays
which could easily darken and damage it, leading to persistent PIH. Just like
with any scar on your body, it’s important to keep it out of the sun!
And yes, I mean a separate sunscreen
product—even if your moisturizer contains SPF, it’s likely you’re not applying enough to protect your skin.
There are lightweight, non-comedogenic formulas available, especially from
Japanese or Korean brands that help to protect skin without causing more
breakouts! Using a daily sunscreen product goes a long way to ensuring that
skin is even-toned, glowing, and flawless—no sunspots or PIH in sight.
A topical treatment containing skin-nourishing
ingredients designed to even skin tone can speed up the process of fading PIH
as well. The Rejuvel 3D Cream Serum is designed to target
all skin conditions, including correct dark spots caused by acne. A serum like
this can be used morning and night to ensure that skin can make the most of the
ingredients for radiant, PIH-free skin.
AcnEase also helps to support the fading of
PIH from within by boosting skin health. After your full course of AcnEase to
banish active acne, a maintenance dose is recommended to ensure the long-term
health of your skin to ensure there are no further PIH-causing breakouts!